Day 01 : Drive from Kathmandu to Besisahar 760m (7
hours) and overnight in teahouse.
We take a bus for the five-hour drive to the end of the
road, either at Besi Sahar or a bit farther depending on
the road conditions, where we stay the overnight.
Day 02 : Trek from Besisahar to Bahundanda 1310m (6
hrs) and overnight in teahouse.
After early breakfast we hit the trail. We have about
three hours of hot but pleasant walking; we are
trekking in the typical Nepali middle hills now, and
the scenery is gentle, muted. After crossing a
suspension bridge at Bhulbhule, the trail passes a
cascading waterfall, and as we traverse the rice
terraces, the views of Manaslu are magnificent.
Following a gentle incline we come to the village of
Ngadi with its picturesque shops,From here we climb,
steep and hot, to Bahundanda. Bahundanda literally
means "hill of the Brahmins" and it is the most
northerly Brahmin settlement in the Marsyangdi
Valley, situated high up on a ridge
Day 03 :Bahundanda trek to Jagat 1300m (5hrs) and
overnight.
A steep trail descends from Bahundanda through green
rice terraces before crossing a stream at the bottom
of a small waterfall. It then climbs again and
traverses the hillside high above the river before
reaching the village of Hani Gaon. Ahead, the
Marsyangdi valley forms a steep V-shape, and we
follow the winding mountain path down through Syange
and along the river for some distance. The trail
then climbs steeply and the path is cut into the
sheer cliff-face some 200-300m above the riverbed.
Eventually we descend to the atmospheric village of
Jagat, situated on a shelf which juts into the
precipitous Marsyangdi valley, where we spend the
night at a Tibetan-run lodge.
Day 04 : Jagat trek to Dharapani 1860m - 6hrs and
overnight.
We awake to a morning climb, head steeply up through a
forest to a wonderful teahouse just before Chamje and
marked by a magnificent waterfall on the opposite bank.
Chamje is an atmospheric village of traditional-style
teahouses, often packed with saddled local horses. After
descending to the river and crossing a suspension
bridge, we begin a steep climb to some small teahouses
at Sattale. After chai, we continue on an undulating
path above the river, climb the switch-backing path to
the top of the hill, and are treated to the sight of Tal
below us on a wide plain by the river. Though it is
enclosed by cliffs, the level area is reassuring after
the slightly harrowing mountain paths on which we have
just traveled. Beyond Tal and the checkpost, the valley
narrows and the path becomes high and winding, and in
several areas is actually hewn from the rock. Beyond the
small village of Karte, there is a bit more exposed
trail walking before the path drops again to the river.
We cross a suspension bridge, and climb the short
distance to the stone kani marking the entrance to
Dharapani
Day 05 : Dharapani trek to Chame 2670m -5 hrs and
overnight
Continuing to climb through forests of pine and oak, we
pass through Danagyu before coming to a thundering
waterfall, where we turn left and head up the high trail
to Koto. After an hour of lovely, open forests, we reach
a clearing at the top of the trail and a charming
Tibetan teahouse where we will stop for a break. Pausing
for breath, we can look back for views of Manaslu. An
hour away is the wonderful Gurung village of Timang,
where the villagers might be harvesting their crops of
buckwheat or stuffing local sausages. Heading back down
to the village of Koto Qupar, our base for the trek up
to Nar Phu, we can look straight up at nearby Annapurna
II - a stunning sight convincing us that we are deep in
the Himalayan mountains! Many of the villagers are
the from Nar Phu valley; this is the gateway to their
region. Less than an hour brings us to Chame, the local
administrative center of Manang, and a large village
packed with small shops and tea-houses, an army post and
a large school. We bed down here for the evening.
Day 06 : Chame trek to Pisang 3200m - 5 hrs and
overnight
It's a beautiful walk from Chame to Pisang, through
woods with some small ascents, and wonderful views of
the peaks soaring above us. It's just a five hour day,
so we'll have the afternoon in Pisang to explore the
village, with it's Tibetan mani stones and gompa,
perhaps taking a walk up to Upper Pisang for amazing
views of Annapurna II and Annapurna III.
Day 07 : Pisang trek to Manang 3540m- 6 hrs and
overnight
6 hours walk past a series of unique and colorful
chortens to Manang, at 3500m, a village of 500 or so
flat-roofed houses, the headquarters for the region, and
an interesting village packed with trekkers, bakeries
and lodges. Manang is dominated by high peaks -
Annapurna III and Gangapurna tower over it, and a
dramatic icefall sits just across the river. There is an
old gompa on the edge of town, many local teahouses, and
some atmospheric, winding streets in the village leading
out toward the Thorung La. Finally, guest houses,
showers, cold beers! There is a 3 o'clock lecture on
altitude by the Himalayan Rescue Association for anyone
interested.
Day 08 : Manang rest day
Today is our acclimatization day, with lots of options;
a long day-hike to the Ice Lake, a visit to the 'Hundred
Ruppee Lama' at the cave gompa above Manang, a two-hour
hike to Milarepa's cave across the river from Braga, the
HRA talk, or a tour of Manang's many bakeries. A hike up
300 meters or so for acclimatization is recommended, but
nothing too strenuous is required. The guest house is
wonderful, a sunny and warm place to gaze at the peaks
in the afternoon.
Day 09 : Manang trek to Yak Kharka 4018m - 4 hrs and
overnight
It's not a long day today, but we gain some altitude, so
should take it slowly. En route, we will undoubtedly be
passed along the trail by galloping Manangi horses,
saddled with wonderful (and expensive) Tibetan wool
saddle blankets, and their jubilant Manangi riders,
bells jingling as they gallop by. We climb past Tengi
and Gunsang to Yak Kharka,
Day 10 : Yak Kharka trek to Thorung Phedi 4450m - 3hrs
and overnight
An easy two or three hour walk up to the Thorung La Base Camp Hotel at
Thorung Phedi, and after an early lunch, another hour or
so to hike up to the lodge at High Camp, where we will
stay the night, getting to bed early for our early
morning start the next day; pass day! If anyone is
having problems with altitude, we have the option of
staying at Thorung Phedi Base Camp, where we had lunch,
a nice spot to spend the afternoon with its glass
windows.
Day 11 : Thorung Phedi- Thorung la pass 5416m -Muktinath
3760m- 9 hrs and overnight
Up early for the three or four hour walk to the top of
the Thorung La at 5400m, where we are treated with
spectacular views over Mustang and the surrounding
peaks. The descent is almost as demanding as the ascent
to the top of the pass, so a cup of chai and a snack at
the local tea house at Chabarbu, at the bottom of the
descent, is a required stop. And on to lower Mustang,
which we have actually reached just after the pass, and
the serene temple complex of Muktinath.
Muktinath is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists
and Hindus situated in a tranquil grove of trees, and
contains a wall of 108 waterspouts in the shape of cows
heads spouting sacred water, the Jwala Mai temple with a
perpetual spouting flame and the pagoda-styled Vishnu
Mandir, all of which make up the auspicious combination
of earth, fire and water. We stay just five minutes down
the trail from Muktinath at Ranipauwa
Day 12 : Muktinath trek to Marpha 2670m- 6 hrs and
overnight
We have a nice morning's walk down the Kali Gandaki
riverbed, looking for saligrams along the way, to
Jomsom, the administrative center for the region. The
Kali Gandaki valley gets incredibly windy in the early
afternoon, so important to arrive before noon; we'll
have lunch in Jomsom, and there is a bank if anyone
needs to change money. Then another few hours to Marpha
along the same riverbed. Marpha is a white-washed
village of cobbled streets, small shops, horses and
donkeys, a recently rebuilt gompa and caves above the
village, and a wonderful place to stop for the evening.
Day 13 : Marpha trek to Ghasa 2010m- 6hrs and overnight
We continue descending the Kali Gandaki Gorge to
Tukuche, a delightful village with a large gompa. Beyond
Tukuche we walk along the west bank of the Kali Gandaki
towards Larjung. Here, as in many of the villages in
this area, narrow alleyways and tunnels connect houses
with enclosed courtyards, providing protection against
the winds blowing up the valley. We make our way through
pine, juniper and cypress forests to Kalopani, enjoying
fine views of Annapurna I and Fang. Ghasa, our
next desination, lies an hour beyond Kalopani.
Day 14 :
Ghasa trek to Tatopani 1190m- 5 hrs and overnight
Another long day, but well worth the effort to get to Tatopani, where the double
hot springs are situated scenically next to the riverbed, well-deserved massages
are offered by the hot springs, the bakeries are heaven, oranges and lemons fall
from the fruit trees and the monkeys play across the river.
Day 15 :
Tatopani trek to Ghorepani 2860m- 8 hrs and overnight
Get ready for some more hills! Today's walk is a hot one, and quite strenuous as
we branch off after an hour of walking from Tatopani from the trail heading to
Beni, and take the Ghorepani trail, starting straight up hill.
Day 16 :
Ghorepani trek - Poon hill 3193m – Tadapani 2630m- 6 hrs and overnight
Those who want can hike up Poon Hill for a 360 degree Himalayan panorama; one of
the best view point in Nepal. You can spot whole annapurna range with
Dhaulagiri. After breakfast, we have a half day's walk to Tadapani, where we'll
be treated to spectacular views of Machapuchare. Watch for monkeys on the way
up!
Day 17 :
Tadapani trek to Ghandruk 1940m- 4 hrs and overnight
We descend through an old, open forest - and it's important to trek in a group
today, as this region used to be know for 'dacoits' - to the village of Gandruk,
a Gurung village still existing in its traditional state. Again, perfect views;
as well, there is a Gurung museum, worth a visit, and several small restaurants
serving traditional Gurung fare such as fermented, sour spinach soup. Yum!
Day 18 :
Ghandruk trek to Nayapul-1070m 5 hrs and drive to Pokhara 820m one hrs and end
of trek
A golden, scenic last day of trekking through the terraced rice fields below
Gandruk on the way to Kimche. We can look back on the way up to Annapurna Base
Camp, far above. About four hours should be enough for us to make it to Naya Pul
(new bridge), where we check out of the Annapurna Sanctuary Area, cross the
bridge, and catch our ride back to Pokhara, just an hour or so down the road. We
spend the night in a nice guest house with hot showers, and eat out at the one
of the cool Cafe, where the beers are really cold, the food delicious and the
atmosphere great.
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