Peak Climbing in Nepal
Peak Climbing in Nepal..
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NEPAL
PEAK CLIMBING |
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Hiunchuli
(6441 m.) |
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Hiunchuli, at a height of 6,441 meters, forms a
massive south-facing wall together with Annapurna
South. Its eastern face overlooks the Modi Khola and
guards the entrance to the Annapurna Sanctuary. An
American Peace Corps Expedition, via the southeast
face, first climbed Hiunchuli in October 1971. The
mountain is not technically difficult to climb but
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Singu
Chuli (Fluted peak) (6501 m.) |
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Singu Chuli (6,501 m) was formerly known as Fluted
Peak. The first ascent of this peak was made by Wilf
Noyce and David Cox on its North–East Face and the
top section of the East Ridge. This mountain has
proven to be very difficult to climb for most
commercial climbing groups who have tried to
concentrate on Tent Peak.
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Mera
Peak (6654 m.)) |
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Mera Peak (6,654 m) is the highest permitted
trekking peak of Nepal. It stands to the south of
Everest and dominates the watershed between the
heavily wooded valleys of the Hinku and Hongu
Drangkas. J.O.M. Roberts and Sen Tenzing made the
first successful ascent of Mera Peak on 20 May 1953.
The route they used is still the standard route.
There are many
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Kusum
Kanguru (6367 m.) |
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Kusum Kanguru, 6,369 meters, dominating the southern
end of Charpati Himal separates the valley of the
Dudh Koshi from the upper reaches of Hinku Drangka.
This peak is a complex, triple–summited mountain
having at least five major ridges and faces. The
north face of the main summit is the most
spectacular one. The name Kusum Kanguru comes
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Kwangde
(66011 m.) |
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Also known as Kangde Ri and Kwangde, Kwangdi Ri is a
difficult mountain to climb and stands at a height
of 6,011m. It forms an impressive multi-summited
ridge at the eastern end of the Lumding Himal, which
in turn is part of Rolwaling Himal. The mountain
stands above the Bhote Koshi River to the south-west
of Namche Bazar. The northern part of the
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Chulu
West (6419 m.) |
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Of the two Chulus (East and West), Chulu West is the
higher peak. It was first ascended in 1952 by a
Japanese Expedition. The Base Camp of this peak is
situated in a small valley north of Manang, off the
main trail to the Thorang La. There is a controversy
regarding the name and location of the Chulu peaks.
There are several peaks close by and are also a part
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Chulu
East (6584 m.) |
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First climbed in 1955 by a German expedition via the
north-east ridge, the peak of Chulu East, together
with Chulu West, forms an integral part of the
Manang Himal, which in turn is included in the
Larger Damodar Himal. Chulu East lying south east of
Chulu West is a comparatively smaller peak.
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Imja
Tse (Island Peak) (6160 m.) |
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Imja Tse peak, at a height of 6,160 meters, is more
popularly known by the name of Island Peak. The peak
was named Island peak by Eric Shipton’s party in
1953, as the peak resembles an island in a sea of
ice when viewed form Dingboche. Later in 1983, the
peak was renamed as Imja Tse.
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Parchemuche
(6187 m.) |
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First climbed in 1955, Pharchamo Peak is an
attractive snow peak lying south of Tashi Lapcha. It
has a north-by-northwest ridge, which rises from the
crevassed glacier astride the Tashi Lapcha. The face
of the ridge forms a uniform slope broken by
crevasse and seraes rising from the rocky lower
buttresses above the Drolambau Glaciers in the west.
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Ramdung
(5925 m.) |
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Ramdung stands at a height of 5,925 meters. It is
situated south of Na in the upper Rolwaling region
and is one of a cluster of peaks surrounding Yalung
La. It provides an access to upper Rolwaling from
the south via the Khare Khola. A team led by Bill
Murray first climbed the peak in 1952; it proved to
be an ideal summit for commercial trekking and
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Pisang
Peak (6091 m.) |
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Pisang Peak offers good scope for exploration. The
western flank of the mountain is guarded by a
hanging glacier and offers considerable challenge.
The western end of the ridge is guarded by huge rock
slabs, which make it difficult to climb. A German
Expedition made the first ascent of Pisang Peak in
1955.
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Tharpu
Chuli (Tent Peak) (5663 m.) |
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Situated in the heart of the Annapurna Sanctuary,
Tharpuchuli is an attractive mountain. It is a part
of the ridgeline and is located south from the
glacier dome. It includes Singu Chuli and acts as a
central divider between the semicircles of peaks
enclosing the Sanctuary. Tharpuchuli offers an
interesting climb to the top and also offers
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Khongma
Tse (Mehra peak) (5849 m.) |
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Kongma Tse, 5,849 meters, was formerly called Mehra
Peak or simply Mehra. It rises to the north of
Kongma La and stands above the Khumbu Glacier
opposite of Lobuje. It is one of several summits,
which make up the long south-west ridge of Nuptse.
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Ganja
La Chuli (Naya kanga) (5844 m.) |
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Formerly known as Ganja La Chuli, Naya Kanga (5,844
m) rises to the west of Ganja La, and is a popular
but difficult mountain to climb. The normal route to
this peak is via the snowy north–east ridge. It is
not yet clear who climbed this summit first. The
most important reward of climbing Naya Kanga is the
spectacular view of mountains in or near Tibet.
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Pokhalde
(5806 m.) |
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Pokhalde (5,806 m) was first climbed in 1953 via the
Kongma La along its north ridge by the 1953 Everest
Expedition team led by John Hunt. Pokhalde looks
like a crenulated rocky ridge dominated by the vast
bulk of Nuptse when seen from Nuptse. The mountain
has a small hanging glacier, which is best reached
along the ridge rising from the Kongma La, on
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Mardi
Himal (5587 m.) |
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Mardi Himal (5,587 m) lies less than 15 miles from
Pokhara, and is the most southerly peak of the
Annapurna range. It is the lowest and the least
climbed or visited peak. Photographs of Mardi Himal
taken in 1953 by Baisl Goodfellow first drew the
attention of western climbers, and the mountain
received its first ascent in 1961. The first route
was via the East Flank
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